Hillsborough
Sheffield
S6 2LL
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Although we don`t normally recommend fitting aerials in lofts they can work fine in reasonably strong signal areas. We sell the above “Loft Kits” to mount the antennas, or alternatively one can just suspend the aerials from string. Doing the latter is more time consuming but it will work just as well. The surface bracket mounts perpendicular or parallel.
Although some people use the above items to mount installations outside, we don`t recommend it at all and the accompanying picture illustrates why ! That install probably comes from Argos, that purveyor of fine aerial products. Still, at least the flimsy Bacofoil aerial matches the under specified pole/bracket......
Steel poles. Eventually, they all come down.... Note the 6” pressed brackets
Then we have Alloy poles. Not only are they rust free but they will flex slightly in the wind (some think this absorbs some of the shock loading) and they`re lighter as well. Both of these will help in putting a little less strain on the bracket, and on your brickwork.... Unfortunately alloy masting is more expensive and (size for size) is weaker than steel unless the appropriate (i.e. larger) gauge/diameter is used.
This is one of my favourite pictures on the entire site, in fact I like it so much
it`s also on the Ssales page ! Nothing shows so vividly the differing qualities
of materials used in this trade. Remember that the 1” steel pole was originally galvanised,
although as we have already seen it was only “Pre-
This is the only type of 6ft pole we sell, in normal usage it will never fail.
Let`s compare the three commonly supplied varieties of 6 ft alloy mast. They can be either straight or of the cranked/swan neck variety. The first type is 1" diameter x 18 gauge, they are the equivalent of 3” fence posts and we would not use a 6ft pole of this type under any circumstances. In fact I am prepared to say publicly that any installer using such a pole (particularly with a large aerial) should be wearing a Stetson. Having said that, if the installation shown below was done by the house owner one cannot necessarily blame him. I was in DIY shed the other day and the only 6ft pole they sell is a 1”x 18 gauge, we call them “B & Q Specials”.....
I wonder where the installer who fitted this 6ft x 1” alloy pole tied up his horse ?
And he (or she !) has only used a 6” chimney bracket.
See our tests of Poles, and also Cowboys` Locker
Incidentally, why has Roy (as in Rogers, as in cowboy) fitted a 5 element DAB aerial ? So few people actually need one of those that we don`t even sell them ! Could it possibly be was so he could charge more ?
Theoretically the higher an aerial is mounted the more signal it will receive. It is certainly the case that if any additional height is used to give adequate clearance (preferably by at least 3ft) to an obstruction in the path to the transmitter (e.g. a roof) the additional wind loading and larger bracket(s) required are very worthwhile. However in most cases (assuming the aerial is mounted at “normal” installation height, say 25ft from the ground) unless there is an obvious barrier to the transmission path I have my doubts about just how much extra signal you would get from (say) using a 10ft pole rather than a 6ft. Remember we`re talking the difference in the total aerial height, e.g. from 25ft to 29ft. Obviously if you live in a dip and your reception path is only just clearing the hillside, or indeed is through it, then any extra height may be significant, but generally speaking I wouldn`t expect miracles. Quite apart from anything else reception sites vary from sea level to 1000ft (or more) so how is four foot going to make that much difference ! Having said all of the above, particularly if the aerial is mounted relatively low to the ground (e.g.on a bungalow), and you`ve tried everything else, then a longer pole is always worth a punt !
In April 2008 we did some aerial height experiments to see on just how much extra signal one gets from an aerial 3ft 3in higher (the extra height from a 10 ft pole over a 6ft) and these more or less backed up the advice previously given above.
On a related point if you are suffering from ghosting (or an RF dead spot) then moving the aerial laterally may well be more effective than using a higher pole.
Steel Poles rust from the inside !
Do you really want that
on the front of your house ? ! ?
Ii isn`t uncommon to see rusting steel brackets fitted on the apex of rendered walls
with huge rust stains stretching out beneath them.... All for the sake of a bit of
decent galvanising. The latter is just what you get on a galvanised welded bracket
and these are the only type we sell. None of your thin finish "Pre-
15 years plus without a trace of rust staining. In fact we`ve got an experiment running where we`ve actually tried to file off the galvanising finish (on a section of bracket) and left it outside in the rain.
It hasn`t rusted at all in five years !
I really wonder how anyone, no matter how big a bodger they are, could possibly contemplate using a painted bracket. They must be tighter than a camel`s arse in a sandstorm.......
The next category up (in terms of strength) is the welded bracket. These are significantly stronger than the pressed variety and are welded together out of steel angle/bar of typical thickness 3.5 to 5.5mm. Note, there are significant differences in the thickness of steel (used in supposedly identical brackets) according to which manufacturer has produced them. Welded brackets are available in either painted or galvanised finish. Although there is no difference strength wise between them (it would take decades, in normal conditions, for corrosion to significantly affect that thickness of metal) the difference in finish is chalk and cheese. A painted bracket can start rusting almost straight away and will usually show significant staining within a few years.
Remember that it is totally irrelevant how strong the bracket(s) are if the
bodging installer only uses two wall screws , so check he uses four !
The picture above shows
a 6”x 6”, a 6”x 9”, and
a 9”x 9” wall bracket.
All our brackets are of welded construction and “Hot Dipped” galvanised, also see “Wall or Chimney ?” )
Note ! Remember to order the V Bolts with the brackets ! We also sell the wall fixings for our brackets.
There are two opposing views as to which should go at the top. The K is obviously the more robust bracket and the received wisdom is that this should go at the bottom because, being further down, the wall is stronger there. However the top bracket is probably under the most stress (certainly if the wind is blowing the pole away from the wall) and so some think the K should go there instead ! Basically one has to work out the relative importance of the two factors for the particular install being undertaken. For an install at the peak of a gable I would put the K at the bottom, whereas on a strong flat top wall I`d put the K at the top.
Basically it`s six of one,
and half a dozen of the other,
But, if in doubt,
put the K at the bottom !
In the left hand picture we have a 6”x 6” and 8”x 8”(mitre) chimney bracket, and
the right hand picture shows the contents of a “Lashing Kit”. The latter includes
5m of pre-
The picture illustrates the difference in construction standard between a pressed
Chimney bracket and a welded type. Perhaps even more striking is the amount of rust
on the “Pre-
Note the “failed” steel pole.
Also see “Wall or Chimney Bracket ?”
For aerial poles up to 3ft supporting small or medium size antennas we recommend and stock the 6”x 6” bracket (see picture). It is important to stress that a 6” welded bracket won`t (usually) “fail”, it`s the masonary which will go first, because a 6” bracket only spreads the load across the corners of two bricks, see picture on the left.
For other installations using poles up to 8ft and aerials up to the size of a DY14 we sell the 8” mitre bracket. If an XB16 is fitted with an 8” mitre we`d go up to a 6ft pole. An 8” mitre usually covers three bricks and to a greater “depth”, see picture below left. The mitre bracket should also be used if your brickwork is in poor condition.
Ten foot poles usually require a pair of brackets.
Bertie Bodger`s “Bang Bang” Bracket
Note how the masonry has been pulled out, and that`s out of a wall, not a (weaker) chimney stack......
An 8 inch mitre chimney bracket in use.
Note the fact that the loads imposed by the installation are spread over three courses
of bricks and to a greater depth than the simpler types of chimney bracket, compare
to 6” bracket install. This really is a fantastic product, note the pre-
Pair of Heavy Duty Chimney
Brackets. These are exceptionally strong but must be used as a pair with a separate lashing wire each. These brackets come with 2” V bolts as the standard 1.5” size will not fit. Note that the pole can be mounted either side.
The crucial difference between a wall bracket and a chimney bracket is that the former
is screwed to the wall whereas the latter is lashed to it, in fact they are sometimes
referred to as lashing brackets. It is vital that this difference is appreciated
because the main reason that anything bolted to a wall has any strength is the bulk
of the brickwork above (and around) those to which it is actually screwed. Unless
a chimney is of large proportions it is unlikely that there will be sufficient bulk/weight
in it for a screwed fixing to be adequate. The answer is to use a lashing wire to
tightly hold the bracket onto the corner of the chimney. For the same reason mentioned
above, there should be a few courses of brick left above the installation. J-
Who would have thought that something as simple as a TV aerial pole could have so many different types with such wide variations in quality....
Size for size Steel poles are stronger than alloy (not by as much as you`d think....)
but even though they`re galvanised they rust. How come ? Virtually all steel masting
sold in this country is " Pre-
See our tests of aerial / satellite poles.
We are more than willing to give advice to those actually purchasing from us.
Could those only seeking information please just find the answer somewhere on this site,
or ring an aerial installer local to them, or call the reception advice phone numbers.
Results of pulling out one of our 50mm M8 wall anchors using a tow rope attached to a car !
The most basic clamp is the "V bolt" which bolts the pole to its bracket and these are available in M8 x 1.5", M10 x 2.0" and M10 x 2.75" sizes (all internal diameter) . Note, all our Vs come with zinc plated washers.
If replacing a pole even the tightest aerial installer would use new V bolts, mainly because it`s far easier to just hacksaw off the old Vs rather than try and undo the nuts on rusty ones.
If you have to use V bolts larger than 1.5” make sure you check they will fit the bracket. Some brackets, esp 6" types, only accept 1.5" Vs. You may have to drill an extra hole yourself, or get the file out !
When using V bolts I would tend to tighten the bottom one more than the top one because if you crush the wall of the pole you will significantly weaken it just at the point where it`s under most strain. In our tests all the poles (unsurprisingly) failed at this point.
That said, crushing a 16G pole is less likely than with the thinner 18G version (we only sell 16G or 14G poles). The bottom V bolt can be done up as much as you like to ensure the pole doesn`t twist in the wind. Sufficiently tightening the bottom clamp is particularly important if using an end mounted aerial (though we don`t actually recommend end mounting aerials for outside use, not large aerials anyway) or a cranked pole, and especially a Supercrank pole.
The first dimension in a bracket size is relevant according to the length of the pole which the bracket is expected to support. A longer pole will generate more leverage on the bracket (and the wall.....) and therefore a bigger bracket should be used. The second dimension is the length to the end of the bracket and it is this from which the stand off of the bracket is determined
There are basically three main variants of the standard type brackets used on many
smaller installation jobs, that is to say the 6"x 6" bracket (wall or chimney mount).
The cheapest of the three is the pressed steel type. It is galvanised but it is of
the “Pre-
Wall Anchors (Wall Fixings) (“Rawlplugs” v “Rawlbolts”)
The method used to fix a bracket to the wall is actually a subject of some debate.
Should one use wall anchors of the metal “Rawlbolt” (sometimes called Shield anchors) type or (large versions of) the plastic “Rawlplug” variety ? There are arguments on both sides. The Rawlbolt type fixings can undoubtedly exert more grip on the brickwork, but there is a far greater risk of splitting the masonry if you tighten the fixing too far. Furthermore if one uses an M8 Rawlbolt type fixing the hole in the masonry must be 14mm, and that is a pretty big hole. The obvious answer is to use a smaller one, but even an M6 Rawlbolt requires a 12mm hole and if one gets down to using a Rawlbolt of that size then it`s debatable if it is any stronger (overall) than a well fitted Rawlplug type fixing. The latter is the type that we stock. The critical point with this type of fixing is that the anchor must be a tight fit in the masonry and be capable of taking a decent level of torque when tightening up. Rawlbolt type fixings are more forgiving in that they can expand further to compensate for a hole which may be a little too big or masonry which may be a little soft. If you do find yourself in the position where any wall fixing won`t tighten up try removing the screw, hammering some wood slivers into the hole (to pack it out) then replace the screw, that often works. In fact in the old days packing (just) wood in the hole was actually how it was done.
Remember, sufficient tightening torque is the name of the game, and providing enough can be applied to a Rawlplug type fixing it is highly doubtful that it would ever fail.
Finally, always remember to ensure that any wall anchor is screwed into the brick, not the mortar We once tried pulling one of our M8 Rawlplug type anchors out of the wall (with a tow rope
attached to a car) and it pulled half the brick out with it ! (see picture below)
We sell wall screws in standard 50mm and the longer 75mm , the latter is generally used when render on the surface of the wall stops the standard 50mm screw/plug seating fully into the brickwork. Both are supplied with an M10 plug and an M8 plated washer. They require a 10mm hole drilling in the masonry.
Finally we have the third type and the only type we sell (straight or cranked). This is the Rolls Royce of the 6ft aerial poles and they are 1.25" x 16 gauge (1.6mm) alloy,
In normal usage, they will never fail.
Why doesn`t everyone use the latter type of pole ?
Well, two main reasons spring to mind :
They`re more expensive and DIY shops don`t generally tend to sell them.
If a weaker pole (particularly a 6ft x 1") is installed by an aerial rigger, they probably want some "repeat business".
The second variety is the 1.25" x 18 gauge (=1.2mm) aerial pole. They are a bit stronger than the 1” type and fine for smaller aerials, provided the top V bolt is not over tightened which can crush the tubing and eventually lead to failure.
It must be stressed that T & Ks are used to gain more stand off, not because they`re stronger than a pair of smaller brackets, particularly if the latter are of the welded variety. So long as the poles V bolts will fit the bracket there is no reason why two 6x6, 6x9 or 9x9 brackets cannot be used for a 10ft or even 16ft pole. In fact, arguably, the strongest (wall) installation would be using two 9x9 (all angle iron construction) wall brackets. Quite apart from anything else a pair of smaller brackets will have eight wall anchors and four V bolts to secure the pole, as against only five anchors and two V bolts of the T & Ks.
Obviously the spacing of the brackets determines the strength of the installation and this varies according to the size of the aerial and the likely winds to be encountered. For small aerials in sheltered locations I`d separate the brackets by at least 1” for every foot of pole, but for large aerials in exposed areas I`d at least double it to 2” per foot of pole. Satellite dishes may require
3”, 4” or even 5” separation per foot of pole, depending on the size and likely winds.
But do you really need huge T & Ks, when cranked / Supercranked poles are available ? !
We sell 3ft & 6ft poles both at 1.25” x 16G.
Our 10ft pole poles are either 1.5 inch diameter or 2.0” diameter (both 16G = 1.6mm), the latter type should be used for larger aerials (e.g. XB16s / XB22s) or in exposed locations.
We also sell 2” Pole Couplers, e.g. to join two 2in diameter poles together however we would not normally advise coupling two 10ft (16G) poles together. We`d suggest using an 8ft (14G) "satellite pole" and coupling that to a 10ft pole, placing the thicker walled pole at the bottom (think Eiffel Tower).
Then there are cranked (or "swan neck") poles (see picture) which are sometimes required if the pole has to clear an obstruction, the eaves for instance. You can use a bigger bracket instead of, or as well as a cranked pole. One should always leave a gap of about 2" to prevent high winds causing the pole to bang against the fascia and also to facilitate maintenance of the latter. Cranked poles can also be used to move an aerials position laterally if this is required to give the antenna more of a clear path to the transmitter (say to avoid another aerial pole) or to avoid an “RF dead spot”, also see Aerial Positioning Tests.
We have finally been able to source 3ft cranks at 1.25”. As far as we know we are the only people to sell 3ft cranks at 1.25” diameter, we go the extra mile because we love quality, fantastic ! These poles (and the 5ft x1.5in crank) are so strong they are even suitable for mounting satellite dishes up to 60cm (or more in sheltered locations).
We also sell 6ft cranks at 1.25" x 16G and 9ft cranks at 1.5” x 16G, though if using one of the latter with an XB16 or an XB22 I`d be tempted to chop 1ft (or more ?) off the end of it.
NB Overall clearance on a 6”x 6” wall bracket with a cranked pole is approx 16”
All offsets are approximate, if this measurement is critical phone to check the exact figure.
Finally we have a 6ft and 9ft Supercrank poles (in 1.5” x 16G, that`s 1.5” not the thinner 1.25”), which are particularly suitable for buildings with large overhangs on the fascias. Fitting these is much neater than huge T & Ks and a straight pole. The 9ft Supercrank pole is often used upside down to crank a pole back over the roof if birds` little presents to you are a problem.......
The simple answer is that it`s bad practice and it shouldn`t be done unless there is absolutely no alternative. A bracket mounted on a wall (with the appropriate pole to clear any overhang) is far stronger than just attaching it to a fascia or bargeboard. Furthermore screwing brackets to wooden boarding greatly increases the chances
of rot setting in and makes it more awkward to repaint them as well. Finally, many people will eventually have UPVC replacement fascias fitted, and then the bracket will need moving anyway.
I don`t even want to think about anyone actually screwing an aerial to a UPVC fascia.........
Pole caps are plastic caps (or bungs) placed over (or inside) the ends of aerial masts.
Their primary purpose is to prevent wind noise, though I have to say that worrying about the wind noise you`d get from the pole, when there`s an aerial mounted on the end of it, is like the captain of the Titanic worrying how much it`ll cost to clean his uniform when it gets soaked as the freezing North Atlantic water creeps inexorably up his ship......
You could argue that steel poles benefit from mast caps, because they tend to start rusting from the inside first, and the cap helps to prevent the ingress of water, though they also prevent it drying out as well, so on balance, not worth it ? Since we don`t usually recommend steel masts this is all a bit irrelevant because alloy poles (which we do advocate) don`t actually rust.
If you feel you want to use a mast cap I`d advise adding one made of decent quality insulation tape because it`ll last longer as there`s less danger of it splitting and falling off. Place a number of strips radially across the end of the pole, then run a length (stretched) round the outside of the pole to cover and strengthen them.
Comparison of Rawlplug type and Rawlbolt type wall fixings.
Note the collar on the wall plug, these help to ensure the plug fits the hole properly and tightens up more easily without deforming.
A little flex in an aerial pole is no bad thing, it helps take some of the shock force out of the wind loading, but satellite poles must be rock steady if you are keep the dish focused on that little “geostationary” transmitter 22,000 miles above the Equator. Thus we stock four ultra strong alloy satellite masts, 5ft x 1.5” x 16G (straight and cranked), 4ft x 2.0" x 14G and 8ft x 2.0” x 14G. They are equally suitable as extra heavy duty aerial poles. Most Sky minidishes will fit on a 2" pole (though you may have to enlarge the holes for the V bolt), but a few of the older ones [fitted with the little "L" pole] will only take 1.25" poles. Check which type you`ve got !
Finally we stock galvanised steel "L section poles" of 6ft x 1.25" diameter.
Poles and Masts (including)
Brackets (including) Wall Brackets “T & K” Brackets)
Summary of which bracket to use with which pole/aerial
Pole Clamps and Couplers including V Bolts and pole clamps
(Also see 3” Fence Posts and the Meaning Of Life....)
Shown above left are a pair of 12”and 24” T & K wall brackets, 18” and Heavy Duty 36” are also available. Like all the brackets we stock they are welded and “Hot Dipped” galvanised.
Ts and Ks are also available separately if required (2 x Ks are slightly stronger than 2 x Ts).
Summary of which bracket to use with which pole / aerial
A 3ft pole can utilise a 6” welded wall bracket (6 x 6” or 6 x 9”) for any size aerial.
If mounting on a chimney an aerial up to the size of our Yagi18 or DY14 can utilise a 6” bracket but an XB16 / XB22 should use an 8” mitre, to be on the safe side
A 6ft pole can be used with a 6” welded wall bracket for any aerial up to a Yagi18 though, as always, one must make sure the wall anchors are tight. For larger aerials we would use a 9”x 9” wall bracket especially in exposed locations. Since cranked poles put a bit more strain on the bracket it may be advisable to go for a 9”x 9” bracket with a crank, and definitely so if fitting a Supercrank pole.
An 8” mitre chimney bracket should be suitable for all of our antennas on a 6ft pole.
A 10ft pole should be suitable for use with a 9 x 9” wall bracket on any aerial, apart from an XB16 / XB22, provided the wall anchors are tight. I would probably advise the use of two brackets (or T & Ks) with an XB16 / XB22, particularly in exposed locations
An 8” mitre chimney bracket would be suitable for a small aerial (e.g. our DM log periodic) but anything larger should use a pair of chimney brackets. These would usually (but not necessarily) be the H/D type spaced at about 12”, or more for an XB16 / XB22 antenna.
I would be wary of fitting a pole of 10ft (particularly with a large aerial) on a small chimney with any size of brackets.
A 16ft pole on a wall requires a pair of brackets (often T & Ks, but not necessarily) for any size of aerial and they should be spaced at least 18” apart, or more for a larger antenna.
For chimney mounting a pair of lash kits and two brackets should be used. The latter would usually, but not necessarily, be the H/D type. The spacing should be at least 20” (or 30” for a large aerial) for a 16ft pole and I would be even more wary fitting it on a small
chimney ! It should be pointed out that it is very rare to have to fit a 16ft pole on a chimney.
If mounting an aerial on a chimney which is being used, or ever likely to be used, I`d recommend a cranked pole to try and get the aerial as far away from any smoke and/or fumes. The smoke won`t affect the signal, but it isn`t good for the aerial so I`d also place the aerial on the upwind side (of the prevailing winds) if at all possible. Bear in mind that a smaller end mounted aerial (like a Log Periodic) can sometimes be mounted below the height of the chimney pots.
Close Up of lash wire terminations
On the left is a “pre-
When deciding how strong to make your install remember that the weight of the aerial/satellite/weather station is almost irrelevant, it`s the wind loading that counts !
Remember, if you`ve got a big aerial on a long pole and it`s accessible, if particularly high winds are forecast it is sometimes possible to temporarily lower the install for the duration of the storm.
Brackets are classified according to their size (from the top pole clamp to the bottom
one) and their stand-
But always remember you don`t have to use a huge bracket if you can use a cranked pole !
When installing a wall bracket always leave 2 to 4 courses of bricks above the install*, and try to make it 4 to 6 courses if installing the aerial on a gable.
* Depending on the size of the aerial and the length of the pole, and whether you`re using a Black and Decker or an SDS hammer drill to drill the holes......
When it`s called a wall bracket, that`s for a reason. They`re not meant for chimneys. That would be a, what do they call it ? Ahh yes, a chimney bracket....... (pictures courtesy of Vision)
Some installers fit “Self Supporting Brackets” (sometimes called “Bang Bangs”) which do not utilise a lashing wire. They have two “L“ shaped pieces of metal which are hammered into the mortar between the bricks, hence the term “Bang Bangs”. Unless access problems are severe (and two are utilised to increase the support) most riggers know they`re a bodge because the strength of the install depends on the mortar around just two bricks at the corner of the stack.
They could call it the “Rod Hull Rule”.
It`s pity he didn`t fall on that bleedin` bird isn`t it ?
Or perhaps he did ?
Is that a tautology ?
*
Note. There could be some Health & Safety Bollocks ruling * about trying to fit your own aerial, so consider this sentence to be a concession to that.
Also see :
A 2”x 2” clamp is shown above clamping two 2” poles in parallel.
Note that two are usually required to join two poles together. The clamp will also clamp perpendicularly, though only a 1.25” to a 2” in that plane.
The 2”x 1” clamp is shown holding a 2" pole perpendicularly to a 1". It will also clamp 2 x 1.25” poles together], but it will only clamp perpendicularly, not parallel.
An alternative method of joining two poles (although they must both have a 2" diameter) is the 2" Pole Coupler, shown right. Apart from looking a lot neater than two 2" x 2" clamps, it had also has the advantage that you don`t "lose" the height of the pole that is required for the overlap between the two aforementioned clamps.
Note ! We do not normally advise joining two 10ft x 16G poles together. If making up a longer mast we recommend coupling our 10ft x 2” (16G/1.6mm) to our 8ft “satellite pole” (which is 14G/2mm) using a thicker pole at the bottom and the thinner pole at the top. Think Eiffel Tower (stronger at the bottom......).
In addition we stock clamps to attach poles to each other, either a 2" x 1" or a 2" x 2" is available. The latter type will clamp parallel or perpendicular but the smaller one only perpendicularly. If two poles of any length are to be clamped in parallel it is normal practice to use two clamps, also see aerial clamps / cradles and pole couplers.
Assuming that their aerial is sufficiently strong I don`t suppose most people mind birds perching on them. After all they may well be tired and shagged out following a prolonged squawk.
However if your aerial is situated over the drive where you park your car, and the aforementioned bird is doing what birds do (or should that be doo doo) then you might not be so hospitable.
You have a few options, apart, of course, from buying a cat with an interest in aerials.
The best line of attack is more a case of defence, and that is to mount the aerial* where the avians gifts to you won`t cause a problem. Generally speaking this involves erecting the aerial over the roof. If it`s on a chimney then that would normally be the case anyway, but if it`s installed on a wall you might need to use cranked pole (usually a “Supercrank"), or an L Section pole or even a side pole to shift the antenna back over the roof. Use of a side pole would probably require a 2x1 clamp and a suitable length of 1” pole.
If all of the above ideas are unsuitable to solve your wildlife worry you could try using fishing line or tie wraps. String the fishing line across the top of your aerial, either from the top of the reflector down to the middle/front elements, or from the pole above the aerial to the same points if that is easier, as it would be with a Log Periodic type antenna.
Tie wraps can also be used to agitate the avians, leave the uncut lengths poking skywards, they don`t like it up `em, apparently. The advantage of using fishing line over tie wraps is that is looks a lot better. After all fishing line is supposed to be invisible (to fish at any rate). Make sure the fishing line is UV resistant though.
* Obviously you have to make sure that your aerial is sturdy enough to withstand our feathered friends sitting on it. What you don`t want, is a Bacofoil aerial !
An aerial obviously requires a clamp to attach it to the pole and the vast majority of aerials come with a clamp, all the aerials we sell certainly do. Most aerial clamps will accept pole diameters up to 2”, and again all of ours will do so.
Ideally all medium or large aerials should be centre mounted (unless installed in the loft) and cradles are generally used to add support.
In addition cradles move the antenna away from the pole which, for a centre mounted aerial, is particularly important when vertically polarised.
Tilting clamps allow for elevation of the end of the aerial to help achieve the most accurate alignment but more importantly (the possibility of) reducing interference. All our aerials come with tilting clamps except the Log40. The manufacturer`s of the latter maintain that one is not
required for Log Periodic type aerials, though I`d certainly disagree if using one on a boat or caravan.....
The aerial on the above is aligned onto Cow Hill transmitter which is high up on a hill (would that be why it`s called Cow Hill....) next to Fort William which is down in the valley. It must be said that it is rare to require a clamp to tilt this far !
Incidentally I don`t like the install, it`s on a fascia and it`s a Contract aerial. Contract aerials don`t come with tilting clamps, so did the installer buy the clamp separately ? Why not just buy a decent aerial, with a tilting clamp, in the first place ? ! ?
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